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Neukölln’s Fellfisch Café & Schmuck has the finer things in life

By Allison Krupp . May 18, 2016

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During mid-afternoon on a sunny day, warm light streams through the glass windows of Emser Straße’s Fellfisch Café. Purple and aching-yellow flowers decorate each wooden table, and a Bob Dylan-Laura Marling-folk soundtrack breathes from the corner speaker. The occasional antique chair; the rodent-bone collection, tapped in a frame against the eggshell blue wall; the cookies in a wayward stack in the cookie jar; it’s almost too much.

I order an Americano, black “Yes, black,” but their coffee menu is extensive. And because these beans are more vibrant than the ones at my normal place, I expect the livelier concoctions, your Cortados and Flat Whites, what-have-you, are all the better.

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It’s an early lunch for me, and I’m choosing between paninis (hello, homemade bread!), quiche, salads, or a variety of pastries. Plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, along with sausages, a cheese breakfast, a salmon breakfast (naturally), and other mixes. Nothing too outlandishly expensive (and mighty, mighty portions).

The ingredients are a smattering of all the best things: avocado, artichoke, goat cheese, zucchini. Something about it seems garden-grown, like home—and perhaps family run (maybe it’s the bassinet in the jewelry-making room), although my shoddy German will not verify this for you. Ignorance, in this case, is just more comfortable.

I choose a pepper quiche after much deliberation. The mozzarella cheese stretches, oozing flavor, and the eggs are NOT bland or dry. The crust isn’t thick or overzealous, and just crisp enough, which I prefer, and the side salad (which I didn’t ask for, but much appreciate), is glorious, fresh, with a nutty dressing.

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The dinner specials start at just 5.90 euro, and range from a bacon and salmon dish to a beet and hummus dish to something that would absolutely ruin my life, involving goat cheese and cranberries and honey. And the wine menu exists, which is all it needs to do, until I get back at a reasonable time (you know, like after 3 p.m.), for drinking purposes. They have longdrinks, and an impressive gin selection, as well. And, you know, beer.

The cookies, pastries, cinnamon rolls, cheesecakes, and other various calorie-bombs, made with love, scream in outrage as I leave without them, but please, good readers: do yourself a favor and sample. If I know anything, I know this place has It.

True to the name’s “Schmuck” additive, the place also sells homemade jewelry. It’s pretty gorgeous and adds to the artistry of the café.

For: Brunch, Lunch, Dinner, Coffee & Pastries (With Wi-Fi), and Jewelry

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