Beets&Roots: Finally, A Cool Veggie “Bowl” Place That Isn’t Bragging About It
By Allison Krupp . February 16, 2017
“Trendy American culture” is a flashy curse, with “third-wave coffee shops” and “craft beer bars” cleansing our grimy, Sterni culture, and our wallets. Jesus Christ, take your pulled pork and your five euro cupcakes back, America: we’ve got blue icing on our faces and no beer money, and it’s cramping our sleepy-eyed style.
That said: leave the delightfully nutritious, gorgeously Instagrammable “Bowls”, or yank them out of my cold, dead hands. Ya’ll don’t deserve them.
Beets&Roots have taken something dramatically snooty—a fast-food vegetarian and vegan “bowl and wrap” restaurant (where stick-thin-LA-girls-with-purse-dogs frequent), and made it into cool, ‘90s and ‘00s-hip-hop-playing, super-healthy, and overall delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot in Mitte—a place in which non-vegans and vegetarians, even those bastard burger-lovers themselves, can feel at home. Gorgeous, fluffy kale, house-made, lemon-zested hummus, Indian-spiced lentils, with a drizzle of spicy mango sauce, backed by a confidently chill Nelly’s Ride Wit Me—what else on this planet could you possibly want?
But it’s not like Beets&Roots just fell out of the sky like a ripened avocado. Its founders, Max Kochen and Andreas Tuffentsammer—a frickin’ Michelin star-rated chef, are innovative and eager to expand their business, with sharp eyes for detail and what Berlin consumers need&want. Max says the future is citywide Beets&Roots takeaways, using their massive kitchen to make everything in-house and distribute to countless hungover assholes, stamping out weekend mistakes with blissfully nutritional bowls, wraps, and salads—rather than the normal, vaguely-Asian takeaway.
The interior, all sharp edges, with even the plant leaves like razors, grey concrete, bulky, simplistic wooden tables, and that purple neon light above, was designed by renowned Berlin-based architects, AAS Gonzales Haase. It’s sparse, yet tasteful, letting the colors from the bowls and wraps do the talking.
Having been a vegetarian for nearly five years, I live and die by the all-acclaimed Bowl, tossing together strange concoctions based on whatever’s near-rotting in the fridge. However, Beets&Roots takes my “technique” to new, artistic heights, creating colorful concoctions, including a rotating, dynamic recipe each week. This week’s was the Indian Bowl, which was divided into four sections, with dal lentils, spicy mango sauce, chickpeas, carrots with a peanut sauce, and vibrant kale, both warm and cool items that unite as a full, fresh, and comforting meal, without the heaviness. This comforting freshness is true for each of their designs, with my tabbouleh-and-hummus-centric Oriental bowl topped with bright, charismatic pomegranate seeds. Odd pairings, yet delicious results: this is the Beets&Roots way.
Beets&Roots also offers chicken, halloumi, meatball, and egg toppings on any dish, along with delightful, meaty wraps. Andy-the-Editor wept over the meatball and cheddar wrap, declaring it an oddity on the green menu, but a very welcome one.
Order Beets&Roots on Foodora, or head to the Mitte store for the full, fast experience.
Große Hamburger Str. 38, 10115 Berlin